Start by feeling the structure of the eye – the brow bone, the crease of the eye, the eyelid, inner and outer corners of the eye, and under the lower lash line. Become familiar with your eye structure to understand placement of product to lift and enhance your eyes.
It’s important to discover the actual crease of your eye, which is not the same as where the skin creases and folds. If you feel your brow bone, the crease is just under the brow bone, where the underside of the brow bone recedes. This is where to place a contour color to enhance the crease and shape of your eyes.
To ensure you are keeping the eyes lifted, become familiar with the outer corner of the eye and keep products blending upward and outward from this point.
Keep in mind that dark shades will push back or recede features, and light colors will enhance, or bring features forward.
ALMOND Balanced in proportion, almond in shape.
Naturally enhance the eyes by contouring the crease and highlighting the lid. This eye shape can wear any look well.
DEEP SET Deep crease, eyes sit back further than the brow bone.
Enhance by adding light to the eyelid and crease to pull these deeper set features forward.
HOODED Crease is hidden by the skin, skin sits on the eyelid - like a hood.
Enhance by adding depth to the crease – under the brow bone to push the hooded skin back and recede the crease. Apply light to the entire eyelid to open and bring forward. Contour under the lower lash line to frame the eye.
SMALL Eyes are smaller in proportion to other features.
Enhance by adding light from the eyelid to the brow bone. Contour the crease and lower lash line, blending upward and outward to accentuate and frame the eye. Do not connect the outer corner contours of the crease and lower lash line – instead, keep this space on the eyelid open with light. Add a light color or concealer pencil to the waterline to open and create the illusion of more space.
CLOSE SET Space between the eyes is less that the width of one eye.
Enhance by adding light to the inner corners of the eyes to open and create the illusion of more space between the eyes. Add depth to the outer corners of the eyes, blending upward and outward to pull the eyes apart.
FAR SET Space between the eyes is more than the width of one eye.
Enhance by adding contour to the inner corner of the crease and blend by pulling the contour toward the bridge of the nose to break up the space between the eyes.
GLOBAL Eyelid is large and rounded, protruding forward – ball-like.
Enhance by adding a dark shade to the eyelid to minimize the attention on the space and recede the rounded shape. Add the same dark shade under the lower lash line and blend to diffuse. Add a medium to dark pencil in the waterline to minimize the spacious circumference. Smoky eyes are best suited for this eye shape.